Tokyo’s “Grandma’s Harajuku” with a Local Vibe 👘🍵
When people hear “Harajuku,” they often think of youth fashion and trends.
But Sugamo, often called “Grandma’s Harajuku,” is a neighborhood where every generation can have fun. Once I stepped out of the station, I immediately felt the charm of this retro yet lively district. Here’s my travel log with photos and impressions from my stroll!
Arriving at Sugamo Station 🚉
Sugamo Station is on the JR Yamanote Line, so access is very convenient.
From Ikebukuro or Shinjuku, it takes only around 20 minutes (Only 5 min from Ikebukuro!), and Tokyo Station is also close by. The station has clear signs in multiple languages, so even first-time visitors won’t get lost.
As soon as I left the station, the iconic archway of Sugamo Jizo-dori Shopping Street came into view. The station area also has cafés and convenience stores, perfect for grabbing a snack or drink before exploring!
Strolling Through Sugamo Jizo-dori Shopping Street 🌸
The shopping street stretches about 800 meters and stays lively even on weekdays. Traditional tea shops, wagashi stores, and old-fashioned deli counters line the path, creating a nostalgic atmosphere.
One highlight is the famous shio-daifuku (salted rice cake with sweet bean paste). The subtle sweetness of the anko paired with a hint of salt makes it addictive. Locals and tourists alike love it, and I couldn’t resist eating one on the spot!
Further along, a giant kokeshi doll stands tall, drawing crowds of people taking photos. It’s one of those quirky sights that makes Sugamo especially memorable📸
Visiting Kogan-ji Temple (Togenuki Jizo) 🙏
Located right in the center of the shopping street, Kogan-ji Temple is Sugamo’s most iconic spot.
Inside the grounds, visitors line up at the “Arai Kannon” (Washing Kannon) statue, washing the parts of the statue that correspond to their own body aches to pray for healing. I joined in, and the experience felt both spiritual and comforting.
The main hall even has foreign-language explanations, making the temple welcoming to international visitors. The warm, down-to-earth atmosphere of faith here left a strong impression on me.
Unique Discoveries in Sugamo ✨
Sugamo is full of quirky finds that add humor and warmth to your visit.
- Sugamon Postbox: Decorated with the local mascot, Sugamon the duck, it’s a fun spot to send a postcard home.
- Sugamon’s Fluffy Bottom: Yes, there’s even a statue of Sugamon’s soft tail feathers, and visitors line up to touch it for good luck. It was surprisingly comforting!
- Tokueizan: Not far away, at Tokuzan (Honmyoji Temple grounds), I discovered the graves of the Honinbo family, a legendary Go (board game) house. From the Edo period to early Showa, they shaped Japan’s Go culture. For fans of Go or Japanese history, this is a unique and meaningful stop.
And of course, Sugamo wouldn’t be complete without its famous red underwear shops—a symbol of health and longevity. Even if you don’t buy one, browsing is a lot of fun.
Sugamo Gourmet Break 🍵
Sugamo offers plenty of snacks to enjoy while strolling.
Beyond the shio-daifuku, you’ll find senbei rice crackers, taiyaki, and cozy cafés serving matcha sets. If you prefer a sit-down meal, traditional restaurants line the street, offering hearty Japanese comfort food.
I loved the mix of street snacks and small eateries—it felt like sharing the same food culture as the locals.
If you want more inspiration for unique gifts and snacks, check out our guide: 20 Souvenirs to Buy in Japan｜Food & Sundries.
Final Thoughts 🎥 Enjoy Tokyo’s Retro Side!
Sugamo truly lives up to its nickname as “Grandma’s Harajuku,” but it’s not just for seniors. With its mix of faith, humor, food, and local character, it’s a place where everyone can enjoy Tokyo’s retro side.
Next time, I want to spend more time browsing the shops for red underwear souvenirs and traditional sweets. I also shared some highlights from this stroll on TikTok—so check out the video for a closer look at Sugamo’s charm!📱✨.
🗺 Access to Sugamo
From Tokyo Station: JR Yamanote Line (outer loop) → about 20 minutes, no transfer.
From Shinjuku Station: JR Yamanote Line (inner loop) → about 20 minutes, direct.
From Ikebukuro Station: JR Yamanote Line (outer loop) → just 5 minutes. Taxi takes about 10 minutes.
From Narita Airport: Narita Express to Ikebukuro (~1h20) → Yamanote Line to Sugamo (5 min).
From Haneda Airport: Keikyu Line to Shinagawa → JR Yamanote Line (inner loop) to Sugamo (~45 min).
Sugamo is a perfect half-day trip in Tokyo. Its easy access from major stations makes it ideal for street food walks, cultural stops, or simply enjoying its retro charm.
